A Trip up North 2025: Taiping

For a report about the first part of my trip, click here. After a cup of coffee with Paul and Fahmi, they went back to KL and I checked in at Furama. When I made a reservation for three nights, the reception told me that “my” room 201 had already been booked for the Saturday night. Of course I could have taken another room, but I I found a better solution. I like Furama, but for many years I I wanted to try the Peking Hotel, because of its heritage value.

So I booked Furama for the Friday and Sunday nights and moved to the Peking hotel for the Saturday.

Here is the Furama hotel and my favorite room.

After a short rest I walked to the Lake Gardens. Always beautiful and this time even more so, as there was no breeze at all, creating a perfect mirror.

A few more pictures, taken while walking the Raintree Walk.

The Raintree Walk was created a few years ago, when one of the majestic raintrees fell down in a storm and blocked what at that time was a vehicular road. The Taiping town council decided to make part of this road a pedestrian area, the Raintree Walk, a brilliant move. It has become an attractive place for both locals and tourists.

The raintrees around the lake are about 140 years old and have reached the end of their lifespan. More trees have fallen and are now supported by metal stilts. Here they are.

A few weeks ago a fourth one toppled and fell flat on the road. It caused a lot of commotion, because an oriental pied hornbill was nesting in the tree.

A few details. I thought it would be impossible to preserve this tree, but my Taiping friends tell me that it has been propped up!

Not all the trees fall on the road. Some fall graciously on the other side and stay alive.

What to say of this? An ugly eyesore for me, an added attraction for others.
De gustibus non est disputandum

After several days of Malay food, I was in the mood for a Western meal. I had a nice spaghetti with prawns and pesto at the Rainy Corner, near Furama. Read here the report about how the owner Andy and I met and became friends 😉 .

The next morning I had breakfast, the usual Chee Cheong Fan at Tong’s stall in the Circus Grounds, now managed by his son. Foo joined me and was willing to drive me to the Peking Hotel. That’s what friends are for 😉 .

This is the Peking Hotel. It was built as a private residence for a rich businessman, became the headquarters of the Kempeitaii during the Japanese occupation. From 1965 until now it has been a hotel. Many years ago I had a look inside, it was a bit rundown. Now it has been renovated and it looks very attractive.

The interior with the lobby and the steep stairs to the first floor. The reception suggested a room on the ground floor, as there was no elevator. But I preferred a room on the first floor because of the beautiful design with the stained glass windows.

The room was clean, with a comfortable bathroom, but I was surprised that the toiletries consisted of three pieces of soap, no shampoo, not even a glass. There was also no water cooker, nor tea and coffee bags, no cups or spoons.

I went out for lunch to the nearby Peace Hotel, where I had a nice Char Keuy Teow (CKT).

Walking back to the hotel, I found a 7-11 where I bought a few 3 in 1 coffee bags. The receptionist said that there was hot water in the pantry. But no cup!! She looked in the kitchen and found a mug. So I could make myself a coffee, using the toothbrush as a spoon. Not a suitable hotel for tourists. Also too expensive at RM 140.

Later that afternoon I met David, a Taiping Heritage friend, at the casual market. We discussed heritage matters while enjoying a delicious “mountain” ABC.

I had dinner with my Taiping gang, this time in Aulong. As usual the food was excellent, value for money. After the dinner, I had an interesting chat with Suet Fun who is now the president of the Taiping Heritage Society.

The next morning I went for breakfast to the Casual Market. I have been there often for CKT with my friend George, but as I had it already the day before, I had wonton mee this time.

I had a look at the reconstructed market buildings. Brand new, well done. Have a look at my report less than one year ago, Taiping, April 2024, to see how much progress has been made, This was the market for vegetables, beef and poultry. But can it still be called a heritage building?

Now completely empty. Will the original occupants, now relocated in Tupai, come back? I understand that many want to stay there.

The Siang Malam, also empty. This was a famous food court. The hawkers have been relocated near the Dobi Line. Will they come back?

The fish, fruits, and pork market. Also empty. Two stalls have been rebuilt. Looks nice but I am worried that this will just show in the future visitors how the markets once functioned. Will the whole market complex become similar to Pasar Seni in Kuala Lumpur?

Followers of my blog know of my fascination with the two heritage buildings on Station Road, opposite the KEVII School. See for example my post Taiping Bandar Warisan from 2019,

For many years they were going down the drain, so it was a pleasant surprise that in March 2024 an ambitious project was launched to transform the two buildings into the Taiping Boutique Hotel., to be completed in two years.

One year has passed since then, the billboard with all the VVIPs is still there, but no sign of any work. The Rest House is fenced off, but a backdoor is still open.

The other building is also fenced off, But there is a small door to enter. The bicycle was still there , click here for the photo I took last year. , I am sure that somebody is living (illegally?) in the building. I decided not to trespass.

I walked a lot and got thirsty, so I went to the Ansari Cendol for a refreshing cendol. The price for biasa is still RM 2 only, I had the one with pulut for RM 2.60.

I checked in at Furama, took some rest and later in the afternoon Foo picked me up for a drive to the Tekah airport. A few months ago I found on the Internet a company that organises Micro Flights from that airfield. I contacted them and showed my interest. Not cheap, but for a Taiping fan like me. a must ;-). A few days before my arrival I tried to book a flight, but they were already fully booked for the weekend! I must plan earlier next time, now I only wanted to have a look and talk with the guys.

When we arrived, we were surprised that a small plane had landed. It was a plane of the Malaysian POlice.

A group of Special Force Police was flown in from KL for parachute training. \. Friendly guys, they offered us tea. I also talked with a guy who was working for the Flytrike company. He showed me the microlight aircraft. Fascinating.

That evening I had dinner with my friends Bok Kin and Teng Hin. They took me to a restaurant in Kamunting, , Yoong lamb herb stew , where we had as mainn dish , guess what, a delicious Lamb Herb Stew 😉 .

After this pleasant dinner, we went for dessert to the Circus Grounds where I had a red bean soup. I often had my breakfast here but never came at night, so I was surprised that it was so busy.

The next morning I had breakfast with other friends, Yeap and his wife. A tradition, often we had our breakfast at Lian Thong’s restaurant, but that traditional shop had now been transformed into something modern. We went to a Mamak, where I had a good rava thosai instead.

I took the ETS to Ipoh, where I was going to meet Aric and Rodney. The train was full and took only 45 minutes.See A Trip up North 2025: Ipoh for the last part of my trip.

4 thoughts on “A Trip up North 2025: Taiping

  1. Thanks for this very interesting blog Jan .
    Wow. You sure do get around !!
    Always good to read about your adventures. !
    Thanks again

  2. Thanks Jan.

    Ansari’s Famous Cendol is the first place my friends and I go to each time we visit our beloved Taiping. The other must visit place is the Taiping Lakes which bring back so many wonderful memories.

    I am quite sure that no other people anywhere in the world love their hometowns like Taiping people love Taiping.

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