Enchanting Chiling

When we arrived at the entrance of the Chiling Fish Sanctuary and saw the crazy number of parked cars, we wanted to turn back and go home!

So many cars

It had been a last minute decision to visit the Chiling waterfall. My last waterfall was Berdebu, more than one month ago. I had hurt my knee on that trip and had been lying low for several weeks, only starting last week my regular Kiara walk. An easy waterfall trip would be a good test for the condition of my knee. I chose Chiling, although I realised that we would not be the only visitors, as this is the most popular waterfall in Malaysia, and only open during weekends.

After some discussion (shall we go to Fraser’s hill instead?), we decided to accept the crowd…:-). A good decision, as the crowd was still acceptable and the reward formidable. It was many years ago that I had visited Chiling for the last time, and I had forgotten how beautiful the falls are. Here they are, from left to right the lower (main) fall, the middle fall and the upper fall.

Lower fall

Middle fall

Upper fall

The access to the waterfalls is an adventure in itself, as you have to cross the river six times. After heavy rain, that can be a bit problematic, but this time it was very easy. We skipped the main fall first, a steep scramble brings you to the impressive but inaccessible middle fall and then to the upper fall, much less crowded, as expected.

A good place to relax and prepare coffee. You can go (carefully!) to the top of the middle fall, from where you can look down to the bottom of the lower fall. Not advisable when you have fear of height…:-)

View

Here are more pictures of the trip. We started at 11:30 and were out at 14:30, still in time for lunch in Ulu Yam, famous for its loh mee and fish cakes.

A nice trip. And my knee did not give any problems!

Here are two YouTube video clips of the Middle fall and the Upper fall

Journal 5-7-2013

Some mixed news

I bought a new camera. Again?,  you may ask. Yes. I am not very careful with cameras and I also use them often under difficult conditions, near waterfalls, crossing rivers, etc.Here is a collage of the cameras I have been using the last ~10 years. Most of them are no more. Only the Nikon 5100 DSLR is still ok. Nice camera, but bulky, not suitable for jungle trekking.

my cameras

The last addition is the Olympus Tough TG2. A water- and shockproof camera. I am still testing it. It has a nice Macro option. Here are two examples

FlowerPendant

Last week our friend Rani invited us for dinner. He recently bought a “big” bike. Here I am posing as the owner..:-)  And Aric of course has to try the helmet.

Me and a bikeAric and helmet

We had our dinner in an Ikan Bakar restaurant at the seaside, in Jeram. You first had to choose the seafood you would like to have. The restaurant is popular and can be crowded. Rani had booked in advance, so we had a “private” dining room! Here is a collection of pictures

As I have mentioned in an earlier email, I monitor the traffic on my waterfall website, since November 2011. A few days ago the visitor count reached 500.000, on average 800-900 visitors daily. Half a million visitors from 173 different countries (of course mainly from Malaysia and Singapore).

WoM-visitors

In another post I mentioned the Malaysian way of parking in a crowded area: far away from the curb, to avoid that you will be blocked by double-parked cars. Here is a crazy example of such a double-parked car, a big one, blocking more than half of the road. Malaysia boleh!

Double parking

A Memorable Trip

Some friends call me jokingly the godfather of the Malaysian waterfalls. And being a godfather, of course  I have godsons…:-)  Actually four of them: Siang Hui nr 1, Teoh nr 2, Harry Nian nr 3 and Nic nr 4.

Last year August, Harry Nian went to Terengganu on a solo expedition, looking for new waterfalls. On August 17, coming back from the remote Berdebu waterfall, he was stung by a swarm of bees and died. His body was found in the Kelemin river only a week later.

Last weekend I have been back to Terengganu with Aric, Siang Hui, Teoh and Nic. We wanted to visit the waterfall where Harry had his fatal accident. A detailed report about this trip can be found here: Terengganu trip, June 2013

The Berdebu fall is located in the Kelemin river. To reach this river you have to follow a (good) logging road for more than 20(!) km to a big logging camp. Around here Harry’s car was found by the Search and Rescue team. It was Hari Raya, probably the camp was deserted at that time, nobody noticed that something was wrong.

We camped a few hundred meters past the logging camp, a perfect spot near the Kelemin river.

Kelemin camp

The next morning we started our hike around 9 am. First an old logging road, later a trail. We crossed the river twice, current was strong, so we had to be careful. After about two hours we reached a point where we could see the impressive Berdebu waterfall. From here we had to follow the river and the going got tough. Huge, often slippery boulders, difficult river crossings. After I had slipped from a boulder and bruised my thigh, I decided that I would go no further and leave it to the others to continue to the fall. There were quite a few sweat bees around, so Aric stayed with me to keep an eye on me, as I am allergic for bee stings. And of course I knew that Harry had probably died by (a lot of) bee stings. We had to wait almost two hours before the other three returned, which gave me time to create my usual marker. Actually I had already decided before we started the trip, that this marker would be for Harry.

Berdebu and marker

We were quite relieved when  we saw Siang Hui, Teoh and Nic return. They had managed to reach the bottom of the fall, it had been tough, they had to circumvent a huge boulder by climbing up a steep slope, reaching a mossy ridge, then finally scrambling down to the fall

Berdebu fall

Jeram Berdebu (picture by Siang Hui)

Before we went back, we took  a group picture, with the waterfall and the marker.

Berddebu & team

It took us another three hours to get back to our camp. End of story? Almost.

Back home I saw for the first time the two pictures taken by Harry during his hike and retrieved from his mobile phone after his death.

Here is the picture taken by Harry, 17-8-2012 at 2:29 pm

Harry Berdebu

Picture by Harry Nian

Take some time to compare the two pictures carefully. Notice the fallen tree, the big rock with some green plants, the smaller, lighter coloured rock left from it, and try to locate them in our group photo. Then guess where Harry must have been standing when he took his picture.

Harry took that picture on the spot where I, unknowingly, erected a marker for him!

When I pointed this out to friends, several got goosebumps. Of course the rational explanation is that the rock where I built my marker, is the obvious spot to take a picture of the waterfall. But I am really happy with the coincidence.

Harry also continued to the fall, same as my three “godsons”. Here is his last picture, taken on 3:18pm that fatal 17th of August 2012. An impressive picture!

Berdebu Harry

Picture by Harry

Apparently Harry stayed on the left side of the Kelemin river, and he did not go down to the pool. Siang Hui took a picture when he was on the mossy ridge (to the right of the river) and indicated a possible location of Harry when he took his last picture

Location of Harry?

Picture by Siang Hui

What exactly happened after he took this last picture, we will never know for sure. He must have disturbed a bee nest, so it was probably not during the river trekking, but after he entered the jungle again. His body was found in the Kelemin river, not too far from his car.

A memorable trip.

Journal 8-6-2013

A long post with a variety of topics.

One of Aric’s cousins got a baby recently and she and her husband invited us for lunch in the Fitou Brasserie (Desa Park city). Good Western food. Long time ago that I had a Rack of Lamb!

Lunch with Param

In my last post I have written already about my Wesak celebration in Taiping. As it had been some time ago since I visited my “hometown”, of course I had to enjoy the food! My friend George always knows new places to try out. This time we started with a dinner at the New Club, where the food is not that special, but the ambiance is nice. In the picture below you see also a dim sum breakfast, chicken/duck/pork rice and dumpling noodles.

Taiping food

We visited Kuala Sepetang, walked around in the fishing village, and went to the Matang mangrove forest, where we looked for birds, but we were not successful, as we were quite late.

Kuala Sepetang

And of course we visited the Lake Gardens. The most beautiful park of Malaysia. Early morning, in the afternoon, always fascinating. Here we saw more birds, a pair of hornbills, dollarbirds. Of course flowers. And quite a few couples, taking wedding pictures..:-)

George came with me on our way back home. After earlier “scary” adventures he had vowed never to go on waterfall trips with me. But I convinced him that a nice waterfall near Beruas was easy peasy…:-) A less than ten minute walk. After that I brought him home in Shah Akam, where we visited the shop recently opened by his daughter, and named after his wife Mary! I wish them good luck.

IMG_7629 2013-05-27 16.30.26

 

When my waterfall friend Teoh told me he could take a weekday off for a waterfall trip, it was no problem to suggest a nice destination: Ulu Rening, see my recent post. Edwin was also eager to go again, and another friend, Chadel, joined too. Again we had a fun time, beautiful weather! It was only when we took a picture “for the album” that we realised that we were all wearing a blue shirt!  Four shades of Blue…:-)

Ulu Rening

During my earlier visit, I had a few anxious moments, when I was caught in the turbulence, sliding doen the last tier of the waterfall. So this time I did not take any risk, which gave me the opportunity to video my friends while they were sliding down.

When I was in Taiping, my friends Girlie and Yeoh told me that they were coming to KL. So  I finally got my chance to invite them for lunch in my condo, after having enjoyed their hospitality so many times. As they did not know the way to my condo, but of course knew where IKEA was, I met them there for the free coffee, after which we had a Western style lunch at my place, soup, bread with salad and cheese, and tiramisu as desert.

2013-06-06 10.57.48 2013-06-06 13.31.01

Finally something quite different. For our dinner we often go the commercial district near to our condo. Many shops and eateries. Many cars as a result. Malaysian style many cars are double parked. Very annoying when you come back and your car is blocked. Solution? See the picture below. Even when you can park close to the curb, you do not. LOL

Parking Malaysian style

 

Nostalgia

About five years ago, I have made two trips with my Kiara (walking) and Gang of Four (birding) friends. Searching my archive for something else, I came across the pictures taken during these trips.

Nostalgia! Here are two trips down memory lane..:-)

The first one was on 8-5-2008. A few months earlier I had discovered a nice restaurant in Ulu Yam, so I wanted to bring my friends there and offer them lunch. A Dutch treat, so to speak..:-). The route to Ulu Yam passes the Batu reservoir, where we took a picture of the group.

Batu reservoir

Here are some pictures of the trip. We stopped for a while at the Sg Tua waterfall and then continued to the WK restaurant. Their menu is limited but the quality is good and it is VFM (Value For Money). After the lunch we visited the Buddhist Monastery and Temple near Ulu Yam. It is the Sakya school of (Tibetan) Buddhism that is followed here.

The second trip was a few months later, on 4-9-2008, to the Chiling waterfall. This is one of the most popular waterfalls in Malaysia, an interesting adventure because you have to cross the river several times before you arrive at the fall. During our trip the water level was high, resulting in a strong current, as you can see in this picture

Chiling river

Because of the high water level, crossing was not that easy, but helping each other we managed.

Not so easy

Just before you reach the fall, some scrambling is needed. Also here our fellowship made it easy.

Helping each other

This is the impressive Chiling waterfall.

Chiling Fall

And here is the proof that we have been there. Still so “young” and adventurous…:-)

Kiara Bunch

More pictures in the gallery below. Our group was a mixed one, a few birders stayed behind and took pictures, the others followed me to the waterfall. We had big fun at the fall, before we walked back. Lunch was again at the WK restaurant.

Here are two videos. Quality is not very good, but you can feel the fellowship and the fun we had.


Ulu Rening adventure

The last waterfall I visited was the Upper Tebing Tinggi waterfall in Perak, see A Dream Come True , end of March. That is a long time ago for a waterfall addict like me, I was really craving for a waterfall. Siang Hui had given me info about a waterfall near Ulu Rening, quite remote and not known to many people. A perfect destination for a day trip.

After our usual breakfast in a mamak restaurant, we (Aric, Rani, Edwin and I) drove to Batang Kali, where we bought nasi lemak for our lunch. Siang Hui had provided me with GPS-data and that was very helpful. The beginning of the trail was very clear, later it became  more vague, but no problem for experienced jungle trekkers like Rani and Edwin

It took us about two hours to reach the waterfall, about 4.5 km from where we had parked our car. At the end we had to cross the river a few times. The weather was perfect.

.Ulu Rening

The waterfall was a nice surprise, because of the magnificent, very deep pool with crystal-clear water. In the picture you see the waterfall at the back, the water thundering down in a narrow gorge. To get there you have to swim and then scramble up the rocks to the right. Here, in a picture taken by Aric, you see Rani and Edwin trying to get closer to the waterfall in the background.

Ulu Rening fall

We spent a full two hours at the waterfall, having our lunch, making coffee, enjoying the peaceful surroundings. And of course playing with the water..:-) Before reaching the pool, the water went down one last step over smooth rocks, so you could slide down.Big fun!

Sliding down

As you can see, the water was very turbulent, not without danger as I experienced the second time I slid down. I was pulled down and back by the turbulence (see video) but I did not panic and managed to swim out. Scary moment for my friends, who were already prepared to come to  my rescue! That is why the video stops so suddenly..:-)

Here are more pictures of this wonderful trip.

We were hungry when we came out and Edwin suggested a Thai shop near Serendah. Ky IKEA friends had mentioned this shop a few times, but I had never been there. You must really know where it is, otherwise you will overlook it…:-)  We had nice Tom Yam noodles, Fried chicken, and Lok Mei (drink) for RM 41. A place to remember.
Here are two more video clips. The first one shows daredevils Rani and Edwin, conquering the current, so that Aric could take a picture (he is shouting “don’t move” to them, because the picture shown above is actually a HDR composite of three pictures)

And in this video Aric shows how to go down the slide without being caught in the turbulence…:-)

Chatting with my sister in the Netherlands after I came back home, I wondered if I was not getting too old for this kind of playing around.She sent me this cartoon.

Cartoon

The translation of the Dutch text is:

We do not stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing.

Thanks, sis…:-)!

A Dream Come True

A few years ago a waterfall friend of mine sent me a picture of the Upper Tebing Tinggi fall, taken from a helicopter. The fall looks impressive and is also clearly visible on Google Earth. Close to and a bit similar to the Lata Puteh waterfall, which is visible from the Lenggong-Bagan Serai road. But this Upper Tebing Tinggi is more remote, so the question was, is it accessible?

It became my dream, to visit this waterfall and see it with my own eyes…:-)

Upper Tebing Tinggi

A few weeks ago I did a recce with my friends Paul and Rahim. Starting from the road, the slope is very steep, but fortunately there is a old water pipeline, leading to a water catchment. There are also old overgrown logging roads. We reached the river upstream of the (lower) Tebing Tinggi fall, about 600 m from the upper fall. It seemed doable! Our recce is the red track in the map. Locations of Lata Puteh and Upper Tebing Tinggi are also indicted.

Lata Puteh and Tebing Tinggi

Because of its remoteness and keeping in mind my mishaps of last year, I wanted to have a strong team, who could carry me out in case of emergency…:-). Siang Hui, Teoh, Rani and Aric were willing to join me. Here we are ready to start our adventure.

Start of the trip

It was a tough hike, which took us in about three hours to the waterfall! I was really happy, that my dream had come true.

We did it

I have published a detailed report about our trip (nice food, more waterfalls) as a Stuif’s Adventure. And here is a YouTube video of the waterfall:

 

Berembum revisited

Last year I have written a post Closure about the Berumbun waterfall in the Lolo river, where I was hit, a few months earlier, by a falling piece of rock. As I wanted to show Aric the place where it had happened, I decided to go there one more time. My friend Rani was willing to join, after my own two mishaps last year and the tragic death of another waterfall friend, I have decided that I will only go to the jungle with a group of at least three people.

Another reason to revisit these two waterfalls (for the fifth time !) was that another friend had told me that there was a nice trail to these falls, avoiding the slightly boring access road to Gunung Nuang. And a nice trail it turned out to be! Well marked with the usual yellow plastic ribbons. After you reach the Lolo river, you have to cross this stream several times. Here is our track on Google Earth. The access road to Nuang in green, with the location of the pondoks along the road. The trail is in yellow with the location of the two waterfalls. Trail length is 5.2 km, we reached the falls after about two hours

Tracks on Google Earth

Here are the two falls. The Bomoh Ali fall (left) and the Berembun fall (right)

Bomoh AliBerembun

The weather was perfect, it was a very pleasant trip. We had lunch and coffee at Berembun. Access to Berembun is not that easy, you have to swim, then scramble up slippery rocks and cross the stream. Aric remarked that it is actually a dangerous waterfall, and he is right. NEVER do this when the weather is unstable, a flash flood would be lethal here.

Here is a picture report of the trip. We were not in a hurry and took time to take pictures. As soon as I reach a fall with a pool, I take a bath to remove the sweat from my clothes. I think it helps, but I still feel slightly ill at ease, always on the lookout for bees. Of course I always have my Epipen with me, but I hope I will never to use it. On our way back, Aric’s Adidas shoes started to fall apart rapidly, but he managed to reach the car, LOL.

Here is a YouTube clip of Berembun

And here is Aric on its way back. Berembun fall is just behind him around the corner. Big fun, but not when there would be a flash flood…!

 

Taiping & Sabak Bernam

As you may have noticed, Taiping is my favourite town in Malaysia, so you will not be surprised that I am a member of the Taiping Heritage Society. They are not (yet) very active, so when they announced their AGM with a talk and a dinner, I wanted to attend. But the same weekend Aric’s mother was celebrating her birthday! The solution was to make a combination trip.

In Taiping we stayed in the Furama hotel, as usual. Close to the Lake Gardens, beautiful and fascinating any time of the day. The famous Raintrees were flowering with pink flowers.

Rain treeRain tree flower

When you go to Wikipedia for the Taiping Lake Gardens you will read there about the “golden rain trees (Malay angsana) (Pterocarpus indicus)” Golden? They must be wrong. And they are. Yes,  the angsana is also called raintree and has yellow flowers. And there are beautiful angsana in Taiping.  But the trees along the Lake Gardens are NOT angsana but Albizia saman! Same family, but different species. Pink flowers. Click here for a detailed explanation.

The THS meeting was hold in the Flemington hotel. The talk, about Bukit Larut, was given by two speakers, Dr Chan Ah Lak and Ooi Beng Yean, both dedicated birders and nature lovers. They are contributing pictures to my Birding in Malaysia website, so it was a good opportunity to have our picture taken together.

Meeting THS With Chan Ah Lak and OBY

The next day, on our way back to Sabak Bernam, I showed Aric a waterfall near Beruas, which I had visited with CNY. It is a nice curtain fall, easily accessible.

Here is Aric, enjoying a shower

Aric taking a shower

In Sabak Bernam we celebrated the birthday of Aric’s mother. As usual some of his uncles were playing mahjong and although I can not play the game myself, I was of course willing for the picture to behave like a real Chinese Malaysian, and join them…:-)

IMG_5mahjong782

Of course there was the traditional birthday cake and a delicious seafood dinner.

birthday cakeBirthday dinner

 

Journal 12-3-2013

After CNY many people organise an open house to celebrate the new year with their friends. On 23-2 I was invited by KcLiew (third from left) and his wife (center with the bottle). The food was good and the company pleasant. I feel very much at home in Malaysia..:-)

Party KcLiew

Another invitation came from my friend Keong, to visit his recently opened outdoor shop in Subang Jaya. He is very interested in parang’s and traditional Orang Asli techniques. I wish him all the best with his shop! It’s near Sime Darby MC, have a look when your are around.

Keong shop

A few days later it was 100 (actually 98) days ago that Aric’s father passed away. In Taoism this marks the end of the mourning period. A suitcase is prepared with everything (clothes, shoes, money) the deceased will need in the afterlife. All fake of course. After prayers and food offerings to the ancestors, this suitcase is burnt on a pyre made of (fake) money.

The pyre

Quite impressive. As I am getting older, I value rituals more and more…:-) I published a  separate post about the event: 100 days

Because of Aric’s family situation we had not made any trips for a long period. We decided to go to Melaka, one of our favourite destinations. This time we stayed in the Puri hotel, beautifully set in a restored Perakanan house in the Heeren street. Here is the facade.

Puri hotel Melaka

Since Melaka became a world heritage site, a few years ago, the town has become more touristy. Not always to its advantage, many traditional old shops have now become art galleries or Nyonya style restaurants. Here is a report about our Melaka trip.